Blog2024-04-28T20:00:53+00:00

20 October 2023 – Basel

Yes, I did it: I travelled around Europe, all by water, in a rigid inflatable boat, the ArgoFram! After three stages, I arrived here in Marseille, closing the circle – happy, but exhausted. Rémis recognised this (without knowing me) and [...]

15 September 2023 – Marseille: Régis

We get up, shower in the harbour building, have a small breakfast on board, the taxi arrives – Michelle gets in, gets out again, one last kiss, and she's gone. – Will we ever see each other again? I go [...]

13 September 2023 – Calvi: Jean and Lea

After this heavenly night in a quiet bay, we set off early for Calvi, moor at this spacious, “open” harbour, check in with the motivated team at the harbour master's office, rinse off our salt water – and first of [...]

11 September 2023 – Bonifacio: Arnold

On our way to Corsica, we cross the Arcipelago Di La Maddalena, a breathtakingly beautiful island paradise and nature reserve. We drop anchor in a shallow, turquoise-blue spot surrounded by a dozen sailing boats that seem to have already [...]

10 September 2023 – Poltu Quatu: Pietro

Michelle has a special talent for challenging me with pointed statements, perhaps to test me? - I remain true to myself; fortunately, we always find common ground. Otherwise, we spend carefree hours, heading north again today along the coast, anchoring [...]

9 September 2023 – Arbatax: Mhairi, Rod and James

We do as instructed, leave the harbour early, head north, anchor in the wonderfully clear water below the castle – and already the first rays of sunshine are dancing behind the rocks. We cut open a watermelon, and Michelle can't [...]

8 September 2023 – Marettimo: Tommaso

When I'm travelling “as a couple”, my attention is no longer primarily directed outwards, but also inwards, towards my companion. Michelle is wonderful, athletic and direct; we take stock of what is important to us and quickly find common ground. [...]

31 August 2023 – Valletta, Malta: Sanju

Off to Malta! Out into the open Mediterranean! – I don't know exactly what I'm doing. With a leaky pontoon. Without any telephone or internet contact to the “outside world”. And on top of that, one of the displays on [...]

30 August 2023 – Portopalo: Gino and Corredo

Wind and waves lash against the coast, the ArgoFram rocks violently, seawater splashes over the windows into my cockpit, I reduce my speed – but everything is fine so far, all the pontoons are filled with air and it's not [...]

29 August 2023 – Syracuse: Gaetano

Finally in Syracuse – a place I've longed to visit, the city and place of work of Archimedes! I've been to Sicily many times, but this is my first time here. While Pythagoras provided more theoretical insights and taught me [...]

27 August 2023 – Catania: Massimo

Another 300 km, another few hours on the water, another ideal sea – but this time with a worried view of the pontoon, which is actually losing air again. What's going on? It's Sunday. Marko has contacted the manufacturer of [...]

26 August 2023 – Crotone: Andrea

The weather is fantastic; I say goodbye to the border authorities and Greece, sail in large loops around the winding bay back into the open Ionian Sea and set course directly for Crotone in Italy. The 300 km or so [...]

21 August 2023 – Finikuda: Jan

Once again, Georges was right... once again, I'm being hit by waves from the north that aren't visible on the weather apps! This time, I'm on my way from Crete to the Peloponnese, so I'm staying a little further [...]

19 August 2023 – Gavdos: Karave restaurant

Gavdos – my destination today, the southernmost point of Europe! The conditions on the south side of Crete are excellent (while the waves are raging in the north) and I soon arrive in Karave, the tranquil harbour in the east [...]

August 18, 2023 – Ireapetra on Crete: Michael

It happened just as Georges predicted! – I don't choose a direct route, but head slightly north, straight toward the waves. Just like I did in the Baltic Sea. But the interval between waves is now a little longer, [...]

16 August 2023 – Kos: Peter and Leandro

Still a little sleepy, I set off for Kalymnos, sail to the best spot in the harbour, stop there for a while (no more than an hour, warns the harbour master), stroll through the old town and enjoy an [...]

15 August 2023 – Lipsi: Tom

Lipsi is just across the way, a stone's throw from Patmos (and also from Akri): 250 inhabitants, many times that number of tourists in summer, quiet but not sleepy, authentic but not folkloric, no “good” beaches but inviting bathing [...]

14 August 2025 – Patmos: Janis & Natascha

The next morning, as I leave Akri Bay, I notice that countless other yachts (with everything and everyone you could possibly want on board) are anchored in the countless bays along the coast and near small, uninhabited islands – [...]

13 August 2025 – Akri: Levtaris & Mirada

Following Manos' recommendation, I take a short trip to Akri, the smallest permanently inhabited island in Greece: around 40 inhabitants, no school, but two restaurants (for day trippers and owners of small yachts). And Manos was right: crystal clear [...]

12 August 2025 Pythagorea (Samos): Manos

I set off for Chios, an island west of Izmir. It's funny how a small stretch of sea separates Greece (the EU) from Turkey (Asia) – different languages, different mentality, different culture and politics today; it was different two to [...]

11 August 2025 – Plomari: Patelis

Launching the boat in the nearby harbour off Dimitris' workshop is tricky, as it is shallow and littered with rocks, and I actually have to get used to the moving “ground” again. After a few manoeuvres, I gain confidence [...]

26 July 2023 – Çanakkale (Troy): Emel

And now we're heading into the next bottleneck, the Hellespont, or in today's parlance, the Dardanelles. A historic and legendary area, where the love story of Hero and Leander is set... Strong currents do indeed regularly test shipping here, [...]

25 July 2023 – Asmali: Kemal

Another delicious, hearty breakfast with Nasin in a restaurant near “my” harbour in Istanbul, then I say goodbye to him and his friends – onward through the Bosporus to the Sea of Marmara, to the marble quarry island of [...]

23 July 2023 – Istanbul: Nasin

The winds are favourable again, the sea is calm, and I set off early – first to Eregli (to refuel) and then straight on to Istanbul. And again, just like before Sinop, the waves pile up an hour before [...]

22 July 2023 – Ilyasbey: Jakob and Iahia

The winds are favourable – I continue along the impressive north coast of Turkey: high mountain ridges that drop steeply to the sea and seem somewhat repellent. On the map, I discover a new harbour, much too large to [...]

20 July 2023 – Sinop: Naizin

What I am asking myself here in Trabzon is: would it be better to spend a few days immersing myself in one place and then travel longer distances at a time, rather than hopping around every day? Perhaps this [...]

18 July 2023 – Trabzon: Kazim, Sali and Köksal

I discussed the mess with David – under these conditions, it is better to use common sense and accept reality: once you give in to blackmail, you risk being blackmailed again and again. The officials didn't seem to be in [...]

15 July 2023 – Poti: David

With the help of Evgeny, a highly professional clearance agent, we complete our departure from Russia – back to the Sochi Grand Marina, this time to the customs area, where we finalise the last papers and get them stamped. With [...]

7 July 2023 – Sochi: Alexander

Once again, Lena and I have to go from one government office to another in Anapa to get to Sochi – luckily, we are informed about the “special situation” due to potential attacks from the Ukrainian side (I had [...]

4 July 2023 – Anapa: Sergej and Vova

Passing the many ships after the Kerch Bridge is very impressive – but I am already faced with a challenge: how do I get to Anapa without GPS, especially as it will soon be completely dark? I switch on [...]

3 July 2023 – Kerch: Evgeny und Sergej

Lena is tough! – Barely back on her feet (and with a fresh splint on her forearm), she wants to continue the journey with the ArgoFram. The weather and conditions in the Sea of Azov are excellent... let's go. [...]

28 June 2023 – Yeysk: Oleg

Before we set off from Azov, Nicolai stopped by and brought us some freshly prepared fish for the journey ... And Alexei warned us urgently to be careful. If the wind comes from the west in Tangarog Bay, it [...]

26 June 2023 – Azov: Nicolay, Alexey and Nicolay

Today we only get as far as Azov, once the north-easternmost polis of the Hellenes ... Today it is a pleasant place at the mouth of the Don on the Sea of Azov, with a large port and transhipment infrastructure [...]

25 June 2023 – Rostov-on-Don

… There is no chaos in Rostov; Prigozhin and his “musicians” have moved on – I sense isolated feelings of malicious joy among the population (“finally someone is telling the leadership in Moscow what’s what”) and that’s it. The [...]

24 June 2023 – Semikarakorsk

We pass through the lock and descend from the reservoir into the Don, travelling along countless untamed bends in the river, past wild vegetation in places, towards Rostov-on-Don. It's Saturday, leisure parties are out and about on the river. [...]

23 June 2023 – Volgodonsk

The canal journey continues, as do the locks, but in fact we are only moving along the western side of Volgograd, travelling in a wide arc around this metropolis until we reach the Don, or rather a reservoir over [...]

22 June 2023 – Volga-Don Canal, Lock No. 9

We took it easy today – a little too easy? First, we continue south on the Volga, sailing for miles alongside rows of houses on the starboard side until we reach the junction with the Volga-Don Canal and the [...]

20 June 2023 – Volgograd

The journey with the AgroFram on the slow-flowing Volga in this seemingly endless landscape is not very spectacular, but it is leisurely and without any incidents. Only when the first high-rise buildings appear on the horizon on the starboard [...]

19 June 2023 – Kamyshin : Constantin

Kamyshin is a provincial town divided into two districts with just over 100,000 inhabitants and is located on the Kamyshinka river on the western bank of the Volga. One part of the city lies to the north, the other to [...]

16 June 2023 – Syzran: Irina, Alla and Oleg

The entrance to the marina in Syzran is 'tricky': sandbanks that have been shifted or accumulated by the Volga over the winter and are neither marked on a map nor reliably marked by buoys - but fortunately the ArgoFram has [...]

14 June 2023 – Samara: Jenny and Albert

The arrival to the megacity of Samara is incredible and impressive: the Volga stretches for kilometres along one side of the city, enthroned high above with its skyline - again, there is a lot to see... We quickly left the [...]

13 June 2023 – Ulyanovsk: Lena

Oleg leaves, Lena arrives, and we continue south along the Volga, without a plan, until we stop at a marina that stretches out into the Volga and is flooded by it - we are in Ulyanovsk. The city itself [...]

9 June 2023 – Kazan: Oleg

From the west, we travelled along the Volga via Sviyazhsk to Kazan, from where the Volga branches off to the south... We, that's Oleg and me - Oleg, who welcomed me in Murmansk last year, with reunions in Solovky and [...]

6 June 2023 : Nizhny Novgorod – Ruslan

Nizhny Novgorod took me completely by surprise - the expanse of the Volga and the even greater expanse beyond the riverbank, the completely transformed city with the old centre and the satellite suburbs spread far and wide, the new football [...]

4 June 2023 : Pljos – Sergej and Kirill

Plyos is something of a posh (spa) resort on the Volga. Only a few hundred people live here permanently, but powerful and famous Russians have their dachas here - and there are several sanatoriums founded and still run by the [...]

4 June 2023 : Yaroslavl – Jury

Through the Rybinsk weir we entered the 'real' Volga - for the next few weeks I will be carried by it eastwards and later southwards, several thousand kilometres away... Jury is the loving guy who welcomed us at Yaroslavl [...]

2nd June 2023: Koprino – Igor and Alexander

From Cherepovets across the Rybinsk reservoir, well over 100 km long and about 50 km wide, then shooting into the bend of the Volga - we head for Koprino, briefly against the current, to a tourist spot, well done, [...]

2nd June 2023 – Cherepovets: Svetlana

Oleg is seriously ill - if Oleg is not well, my project is not well. Cold nights on the ArgoFram, lots of wind during the day, the unusual stress... Luckily there is Svetlana! Svetlana is a fairy godmother and lives [...]

27 May 2023 – Vytegra: Mikhail and Alexei

Mikhail and Alexei are friends and neighbours, and work as engineers for the Volga Baltic Canal. - Alexei is a friend of Oleg, and I am a friend of Oleg, so I am also a friend of Alexei (and [...]

20 May 2023 – St. Petersburg: Oleg and Denis

Oleg and Denis own the newest marina in St. Petersburg, where I felt so at home (they deal with yachts of all kinds, currently somewhat limited due to circumstances...) - they immediately saw that my yacht does not offer [...]

16 May 2023 – Kotka: Piia and Jarrko

Piia and Jarrko are the harbour masters of the Kotka marina and run the entire operation with cafeteria, sauna, laundry and also organise concerts there. We first met in 2021 (maiden voyage) and again in 2022 when I returned [...]

083 Bronnoysund – Lovund, 20 June 2022

Sunday, 14 May 2023|

A shopping centre with fresh groceries next door, and an experienced sailor at the pier, together already make a good basis for a successful stay (especially in this weather). When we are told where the puffins [...]

082 Bessaker – Bronnoysund, 19 June 2022

Sunday, 14 May 2023|

As beautiful as it is here, with people and nature, I want to keep going. Bronnoysund is to be the next stop. - No sooner said than we are informed that on the way there we [...]

081 Aure – Bessaker, 18 June 2022

Sunday, 14 May 2023|

Into bed when it rains - up again when it rains, and onwards... Our neighbour, the kayak adventurer, is also already up, eats another hearty meal, squeezes into his dry suit, and pulls out into the [...]

080 Alesund – Aure, 17 June 2022

Thursday, 11 May 2023|

The weather doesn't get any better... We drive past the mighty Queen Marry II to a petrol station to fill up with fuel. And meet an elderly gentleman with travel experience, who asks me interesting questions, [...]

079 Stadlandet – Alesund, 16 June 2022

Tuesday, 2 May 2023|

There's something appealing about being off the main track like in Stadlandet, but now we're wishing for more 'life' again, more infrastructure, more civilisation. At least I do. Because travelling through the remote areas, as beautiful [...]

078 Hardbakke – Stadlandet, 15 June 2022

Monday, 1 May 2023|

Today we face a striking point: Stad! Stad is probably the trickiest spot on this journey to get around. The internet is full of dramatic stories and incidents that must have happened there. - Basically, it's [...]

077 Bergen – Hardbakke, 14 June 2022

Thursday, 20 April 2023|

Basically, my northern journey begins just here, just now - from Bergen, a new, different world begins, not only geographically and economically, but also historically: Norway is thinly populated anyway, and will now be sparsely populated [...]

075 Haugesund – Bergen, 10 June 2022

Thursday, 20 April 2023|

The departure from this sound is spectacular: adventurous-looking, partly huge special ships are waiting here to sail out into the unpredictable sea and do a good job. It's obvious: Norway can build ships... They're up to [...]

072 Varberg – Skagen, 5 June 2022

Saturday, 15 April 2023|

Surprising: here in Varberg, there were no significant personal contacts yesterday. Was I not in the mood? The encounters were a bit superficial, in my opinion. Or let's say: I was very interested in the topics [...]

071 Helsingborg – Varberg, 4 June 2022

Thursday, 13 April 2023|

Now I head into the Kattegat, northwards. Where I'm going today is not decided at the moment. Somewhere along the Swedish west coast I will spend the night; somewhere from where I can 'easily' get to [...]

070 Lomma – Helsingborg, 2 June 2022 and the day after.

Thursday, 13 April 2023|

We enjoy our freedom. But still, the farewell weighs on our hearts... I accompany Martina to the airport train, which takes her over the almost eight-kilometre-long bridge, across the strait between Malmö and Denmark, directly to [...]

068 Kalmar – Hanö, 30 May 2022

Sunday, 9 April 2023|

We enjoy the amenities of this harbour in the middle of Kalmar - in general I would like to add that Sweden offers excellently developed guest harbours; we take a shower, prepare our breakfast and warm [...]

067 Stegeborg – Kalmar, 29 May 2022

Tuesday, 4 April 2023|

It was clear to both of us when we woke up that the journey would take us south around Sweden - as far as Martina can come along, we'll see. Cool! We refuel - me petrol [...]

066 Trosa – Mem – Stegeborg, 28 May 2022

Tuesday, 4 April 2023|

A new day, and the sun is peeking through a bit... So we go to the little town (which was highly recommended to us to visit) and take in the lovely atmosphere - pretty little houses, [...]

065 Stockholm – Birka – Trosa, 27 May 2022

Tuesday, 4 April 2023|

Departure; we take another warm shower, ask the harbour master to be sure about the upcoming lock passage into the inland water (today's Lake Mälaren) to the island of Björkö, and say goodbye. Soon we reach [...]

063 Helsingholmen – Degerby, 24 May 2022

Wednesday, 22 March 2023|

The weather is good, the sea is clear, so I can navigate the islands without any problems. Intuitively, I decide to moor in the harbour of Degerby on the island of Föglö in the archipelago of [...]

062 Miiduranna – Helsingholmen, 23 May 2022

Wednesday, 22 March 2023|

Off we go. I sail out of the harbour of Miiduranna carefully - take another deep breath. I am ready, yes I want to, and my ArgoFram, this splendid example of a floating experimental laboratory, carries [...]

060 Basel – Dublin – Tallinn, 7 May 2022

Saturday, 18 March 2023|

Thanks to low-cost airlines, my flight to Tallinn went via Dublin, as it happens... But I gratefully accepted this coincidence, as I had been rudely turned back (Corona) when I entered Dublin last summer, or rather [...]

059 Winter 2021/22

Saturday, 18 March 2023|

Sure, in 2022 I would like to tackle the second part of my circumnavigation of Europe. But now, in November 2021, everything is somehow open, unpredictable: A phantom called Corona continues to run riot in Europe, [...]

055 Montbéliard – Dannemarie, 9 October 2021

Sunday, 12 March 2023|

From now on, until I reach the Rhine, I ride exclusively in artificial water, in a waterway enclosed by dams and walls, a canal (which also serves as a bridge over small valleys). And soon I [...]

048 Roses – Port St. Louis, 2 October 2021

Monday, 27 February 2023|

Then it's time to say goodbye. The days passed... No dream! - Martina has booked a flight from Barcelona back to Tallinn, we enjoy a last breakfast together. I accompany her to the bus, which like [...]

043 Garrucha – Aguilas, 22 September 2021

Thursday, 23 February 2023|

The weather is beautiful, Mediterranean, pleasant, but the swell is still significant. Martina is not comfortable with it. Nevertheless, we set off, want to continue – and 'hop' over to Aguilas. In less than an hour [...]

040 Vilamoura – Barbate, 18 September 2021

Monday, 20 February 2023|

Martina has arrived in Faro, wanted to come with me on the ArgoFram for a while - I'm happy, pick her up at the airport by bike (beautiful, natural shore path) and together we take a [...]

037 Baiona – Figueira da Foz, 14 September 2021

Thursday, 16 February 2023|

The break day was good for me; I recover quickly. It's supposed to be stupid on the sea outside, here on land it's wonderful: late summer sun, cheerful people (but not overcrowded, on the contrary, they [...]

034 Gijon – Viveiro, 10 September 2021

Sunday, 1 May 2022|

A morning ride with a new bike through Gijon is a completely new experience - distances hardly matter any more. Again I go to the Carrefour (where I bought the bike) and help myself to [...]

033 Santander – Gijon, 9 September 2021

Sunday, 1 May 2022|

Today I want to have a Cantabrian breakfast in the harbour café, and write my texts during it. What starts well soon ends with a sharp intervention by the owner, who rudely turns me away [...]

031 Port Joinville – Royan, 7 September 2021

Tuesday, 25 January 2022|

During my morning walk in Port Joinville, I find a bakery that - finally - deserves the name. A little paradise! And next door, a charcuterie is already open, with delicacies so rich in fat [...]

029 Newlyn – Loctudy, 5 September 2021

Sunday, 23 January 2022|

The day starts grey. Newlyn is covered in clouds - ideal to get through my fitness programme before I set off. But I don't really have a programme any more; I always see what I [...]

026 Kilkeel – Aberystwyth, 1 September 2021

Sunday, 16 January 2022|

How can I put it? It's not really bustling in the harbour of Kilkeel, but it's still a constant coming and going; boats arrive, unload their cargo, others fill their bunkers with 'bait fish' for [...]

024 Ballycastle – Belfast, 30 August 2021

Wednesday, 12 January 2022|

After breakfast I go to the harbour master, pay, and am again very kindly served. Showers, toilet facilities etc., everything tiptop. The lady in the tourist office, who receives guests in the same building, also [...]

020 Wick – Inverness, 25 August 2021

Sunday, 9 January 2022|

My journey from Wick to Inverness goes smoothly: I say goodbye to all these impressively committed people in Wick harbour, cruise in a relaxed manner, moor up in front of the first lock to the [...]

016 Amble – Anstruther, 21 August 2021

Tuesday, 21 December 2021|

Thanks to the detailed information from the harbour master of Amble, I schedule my departure so that I arrive at the intended Anstruther in Scotland at a high water level. Because here I can expect [...]

014 Lowestoft – Whitby, 19 August 2021

Monday, 6 December 2021|

Finally out of Lowestoft. Finally picking up speed again - even if the feeling for the rolling sea has to be found again after this forced break... Finally off to Whitby, the place I've been [...]

010 Brunsbüttel – Norderney, 6 August 2021

Saturday, 7 August 2021|

I'm doubly lucky after a good night's sleep. In the morning, many ships leave the marina, heading for Hamburg on the up moving tide. Then I can moor directly at the jetty, because I don't [...]

005 Klaipeda – Gdansk, 27 July 2021

Wednesday, 28 July 2021|

The crossing from Klaipeda to Gdansk is actually no problem, provided the sea is calm, if it weren't for the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad in between - without this Russian bastion, Poland and the Baltic states would not have [...]

004 Liepaja – Klaipeda, 26 July 2021

Tuesday, 27 July 2021|

Today we have only a stone's throw to go: about 110 km or two hours to Klaipeda, a harbour and cultural city in Lithuania. Previously, we tried to moor at Palanga; Palanga is THE Lithuanian summer holiday destination with [...]

003 Riga – Liepaja, 25 July 2021

Monday, 26 July 2021|

The journey to Liepaja, Latvia's third largest city with a population of around 80,000, proved to be a 'tough exercise': at first, the weather was wonderful with almost glassy seas, and we enjoyed doing nothing [...]

002 Pärnu – Riga, 24 July 2021

Sunday, 25 July 2021|

Another glorious summer morning awaits us; we stroll into the small 'old town' and indulge in specialities from a bakery that seems to have remained unchanged since Martina was a child. But then we set [...]

001 Tallinn – Pärnu, 23 July 2021

Saturday, 24 July 2021|

I am depressed and excited at the same time! - All plans are wastepaper: First, in early summer, Norway closed the borders because of 'Corona', consequently a trip around the North Cape to the White [...]

Go to Top