We actually wanted to go to Saratov, a 600-year-old city with a population of over 800,000 that lies high above the Volga. But its marina is located on the opposite bank of the Volga to the east, lower down, near the twin city of Engels (named after the German social theorist and communist revolutionary Friedrich Engels). Together, these two cities form an economic and political heavyweight along the Volga with around 1.2 million inhabitants, connected by a huge, almost three kilometre long, steeply sloping bridge.

The marina in Engels is part of a leisure centre with private beaches, hotels, restaurants, bars and BBQ party areas and open-air discos that can be hired for festivities, somewhat wild and frivolous – it’s summer and the inhibitions (and also the covers) seem to be coming off, at least this weekend! Numerous parties, lightly dressed ladies and more or less hard-drinking gentlemen celebrate the warm days and evenings at the top of their voices.

Igor and Murat are the harbour masters in the public area of the resort – good-natured guys who are delighted with our visit and offer us all the help they can. Sergei and both Ivan work on an impressive yacht moored next to the ArgoFram. This yacht apparently belongs to a well-known entrepreneur (manufacturer of tinned meat); Lena and I are allowed to take a shower in this yacht and, to our great surprise, we are presented with delicious tinned meat (in a jar), which the entrepreneur and owner of the yacht had his men present to us! – We form a cheerful community enjoying the emerging summer on the outermost part of this yacht facility.