I set off early, it’s still dark. I want to and have to lock, a few centimetres of difference in altitude probably only as far as the Rhone… Everything works out (I’m the only one), and as soon as I leave the lock and enter the Rhone, I’m surprised by violent waves and gusts of wind lashing at me from the south.
It seems as if the waves are drifting up the river, but the current is flowing in the opposite direction – it looks strange! And the visibility is miserable, because with the wind and the beginning of rainfall, it’s hard to see anything in the darkness; my headlights just shoot into the raindrops and illuminate the opposite bank, but don’t give me an overview.
I don’t get any further like this. I’m now moving on a river, don’t know what to expect, can’t see any warning signals on my screen (because the river boats hardly have the technical equipment) and the radar doesn’t really help either. In addition, the Rhone seems to swell continuously. I therefore moor immediately – and wait until it gets lighter.
Ugh, it’s cold and uncomfortable. Although I have prepared some hot tea and did some good shopping yesterday, I am not in the mood for breakfast. It blows into my cockpit from behind and somehow freezes me. Shitty darkness, pouring weather.
When it gets light, I cast off, want to go to Arles, the Roman city, where I can look at all the ruins and maybe breathe in some art and culture (a well-known patron from Basel maintains and promotes various projects here). But as soon as I arrive, this city seems to reject me: no harbour, no mooring for small boats, nothing where I could tie up my ArgoFram and go exploring for a few hours. – Excuse me? Is there such a thing? All the landing stages are closed, the walls without bollards. The moorings for the big river cruise ships are not usable with the changing water levels, and anchoring is not possible either.
I am baffled and drive on disappointed.
In Avignon, the same picture: lovely river forks, but no landing stage to welcome a guest arriving by boat. A nasty surprise here too! – Once the seat of the Pope, interesting history, more than worth a stop. But what to do if I can’t stop?!
So I drive on, just keep going. Up the Rhone as far as I can… The ArgoFram ploughs its way through this confused mixture of waves and currents, sometimes with branches and even whole tree trunks floating down. I have to be very attentive, but sometimes I can’t prevent a rumble.
I continue to the lock of Beauchastel (just before Valence), where I spend the night. There are two jetties where you have to moor and wait until the next lock… I ask the bridge if it is possible to spend the night here, which is confirmed, but there is nothing here. No toilet, no water, no electricity. Nothing but shitty weather and strong wind hitting me from behind in the open cockpit, and a bad mood (but it’s self-made).