Through the Rybinsk weir we entered the ‘real’ Volga – for the next few weeks I will be carried by it eastwards and later southwards, several thousand kilometres away…

Jury is the loving guy who welcomed us at Yaroslavl and looked after us carefully. He is actually a fuel station attendant, but at the same time he takes on many other functions here – he is like the good spirit of this marina, also lives here and is available around the clock. He is certainly not at the top of the hierarchy, he is more like the foundation, not imposing himself in any way. And yet he seems to me to be the man for all cases. He lives for this marina, and the marina lives through him.