Once again, Georges was right… once again, I’m being hit by waves from the north that aren’t visible on the weather apps! This time, I’m on my way from Crete to the Peloponnese, so I’m staying a little further north than planned to better face the wind and waves: a game or dance at significantly reduced speed… This goes on for several hours until I turn west without stopping at a larger island (Kithira). From there, I sail in the wind and wave shadow of this island at normal cruising speed, optimally economical and without further rocking, and arrive in Finikuda two hours later. – The Aegean Sea is still full of nautical mysteries for me!
Why did I come here with such determination? – Finikuda was our holiday paradise in earlier years; my parents came here several times with me and my sister (that must have been more than 50 years ago). Now I want to see what has become of this place. I still remember well the row of houses with a few restaurants and guest rooms along the small beach in this bay, and the little harbour, and of course the huge sandy beach on the western side of this place, where we used to hang out naked and where Western European hippies and Greek Orthodox priests made life difficult for each other …
I recognise Finukuda immediately. Nothing has really changed; many of the houses, which were once rudimentary structures, have been extended, but the basic layout remains the same. They have just been repainted in more attractive colours, in keeping with current trends, and a few more restaurants/bars, souvenir kiosks and a belt of additional rows of houses in the hinterland have been added, along with some larger shops at the entrance to the village. The former hippie beach has become a campsite, flanked by a few chic holiday homes and two rather improvised restaurants. But it’s clear that campers and other freedom-loving people still come here to spend long, uneventful summer days with minimal infrastructure.
Next to me in the (now renovated) small harbour is Jan with his beautiful leisure boat; Jan is a cool, burly Dutchman who moved here around 35 years ago at the age of 40, built a property up on the hill above this bay and played a major role in the development of this spot.
Early retirement… Sun, fun and nothing to do… High quality of life, great climate, certainly, but without contact and visits home, life here would be a bit boring. Today, Jan is not doing so well, his spirits are low… His children do not want to take over his property or share his lifestyle. And although he has been here since time immemorial and has become an important figure, he has remained the cool Dutchman.
Not a Greek from Finikuda.
The long-term consequences of a successful exit? – I note that integration is a mutual endeavour; a sleek leisure boat is not a fishing boat, it is a status symbol and not a working tool. Jan has certainly contributed to the prosperity in and around Finikuda and encouraged investment. But could it be that he is being overtaken, if not overrun, by his own commitment? Or is his somewhat thoughtful nature the “natural” consequence of age?