Still a little sleepy, I set off for Kalymnos, sail to the best spot in the harbour, stop there for a while (no more than an hour, warns the harbour master), stroll through the old town and enjoy an ice cream. This is where the famous sponges sold at all the tourist hotspots in Greece are supposed to come from… But that was once upon a time. There are still sponge divers, but the waters around this island have been almost completely cleared; even the sponges sold here come from the Far East.
I also reach Kos via a strait east of the island opposite Turkey. The new marina is huge and top-notch: three competing, good restaurants, a service centre with washing machines and even a fitness centre… A short walk takes me to the main town at the old harbour – where I am overwhelmed by hurried tourists who always seem to be missing something in this place. Mass tourism is the order of the day here, with hardly any peace and quiet or relaxation. And here, too, the restaurants are packed. However, the prices are moderate, as you’d expect with such large crowds. There’s something for everyone.
In the marina, I squeeze into the last available spot between a sailing boat and a small motor yacht. This is where Peter lives! Peter was a “lieutenant at sea”, but he retired long ago and enjoys remarkable health. With him is Leandro, his grandchild. They spend the summer here and travelling together; Leandro is learning something that hardly any other child gets to learn so thoroughly “en passant”: a thorough education as a sailor.
I discuss the weather forecast with Peter… Very changeable at sea. My journey to Rhodes and on to Crete is likely to be exciting… So I’m enjoying my short stay in Kos, playing along with the tourist attractions, and preparing myself mentally for some “eventful” days ahead.