On our way to Corsica, we cross the Arcipelago Di La Maddalena, a breathtakingly beautiful island paradise and nature reserve. We drop anchor in a shallow, turquoise-blue spot surrounded by a dozen sailing boats that seem to have already spent the night here. And of course, we go swimming, one after the other. Around midday, more and more recreational boats arrive, until even larger, two-storey party boats moor here at permanently installed buoys and spit out hundreds of bathing tourists. An unparalleled spectacle! – Last but not least, a floating cocktail bar joins the party, navigating its way through the many small and larger boats and offering all kinds of chilled drinks – including spirits – and snacks. A successful business idea, implemented by two likeable men with a lot of passion and humour.
As the first boats set sail, I too head out to sea again and give it full throttle – I have a feeling that it could get crowded in nearby Bonifacio, and I really want to find accommodation there. So let’s go!
There’s something sexy about speeding through these busy waters, if I may say so. At last, I can put my foot down on the ArgoFram, which happily accepts and carries us forward at full gallop (at 70 kilometres per hour). Bonifacio itself lies somewhat forbiddingly majestic on a striking hill that juts out into the sea like a spur; the marina itself is located in a narrow natural bay behind it (an ideal harbour!) and is bursting at the seams. Everyone wants to go home at almost the same time … Nervous “parking attendants” in their RIBs try to bring order to the chaos … I sneak past them, spot a gap, park and rush on foot to the harbour master’s office to reserve this spot. Successfully.
No sooner am I back at the ArgoFram than I understand why the “parking attendants” are gesticulating so wildly: huge yachts are already arriving, 60 to 80 metre long luxury vessels, squeezing past everyone else into this bay. And they are moored in a prominent spot – where hundreds of curious landlubbers are taking photos and shooting videos. What a spectacle.
We shower, get dressed and climb up to the old town. A few photos in the alleys and at sunset, and soon we are sitting in a street restaurant enjoying a local wild boar dish – fine food, pleasant temperatures, pure holiday atmosphere. For a whole moment, I am in another world.
The next morning, I meet Arnold at his Paloma, his 12.5-metre sailing ship for six guests. He is a skipper and offers German tourists adventure cruises: https://www.palomare.de/segeln-im-mittelmeer/ – We talk about everything under the sun, and in particular about his “new” home in these waters; he combines his hobby with his profession and it seems to me that he is more than satisfied with his life. It’s just shift change, one group is disembarking and the next is coming soon. He still has to clean up, then it’s back out into this beautiful, very busy water world between Sardinia and Corsica. So that his customers can also experience another world.