Once again, I went up to Valletta’s old town, had a good breakfast, then drove from my parking spot to the petrol station in the marina, filled up with petrol and radioed the port authorities to let them know I was leaving – and then I sped off. My destination is Lampedusa; I’m interested in the unique island landscape and the people who live there, as well as the whole refugee issue… It’s a special feeling to be speeding around in the middle of the Mediterranean. The weather is pleasant and beautiful, but the wind would still cool me down quickly (which is why I’m well wrapped up). I keep filling the leaky pontoon with air while driving, no problem. I think that’s better than leaving it limp in the water.
Near Lampedusa, I don’t see any other boats far and wide; the migrant smugglers are well connected with the “aid organisations” and hand over the African migrants close to the Libyan coast (who are then handed over to the authorities in Sicily, as I saw in Syracuse).
In the harbour of Lampedusa, I quickly realise that the migrants – similar to Lesbos – are “temporarily stored” far away if they make it to or near the island. Only the confiscated boats are stored in the harbour itself: simple, wide fibreglass monohulls (the engines have already been removed). Otherwise, it’s holiday atmosphere all round.
On the long harbour quay, I quickly encounter tourists (mostly divers or adventure seekers who have booked a boat trip) and locals who marvel at my ArgoFram with interest (though sometimes I’m not sure if they’re confusing the Swiss cross with the Red Cross… at least it’s a good conversation starter). The upper group in the picture are mainland Italians (the ladies have Russian and American roots) who have bought a second home here on Lampedusa at a reasonable price; apparently, it’s worth flying here several times a year to enjoy a pleasant holiday on Lampedusa. During my tour of the village, it quickly becomes clear that the cuisine and climate here are excellent – even though most things are imported, apart from seafood and some fruit! – The group of men below consists of local boat owners or employees who are happy to help me in the harbour, give me tips for excursions on the island and are generally very friendly. Friends, in other words.
Landscape-wise, this island doesn’t have much to offer, but the bays must be exciting (for divers), offer variety and generate enough income for the locals to make life here almost perfect. If only these peripheral issues weren’t so unbearable. But the Italian navy is cleaning up far out at sea to ease the social pressure on Lampedusa.