Basically, my northern journey begins just here, just now – from Bergen, a new, different world begins, not only geographically and economically, but also historically: Norway is thinly populated anyway, and will now be sparsely populated the further north I go. In addition, the Gulf Stream from the Atlantic will have an increasing influence on my journey. And: we are getting closer and closer to the sun, when the days are now getting noticeably longer… (it would be nice if we could also see this sun one day).
My journey also begins anew because my propellers are new: the blades are slightly differently dimensioned, slightly differently angled. Marko suggested this because he suspects that the driving characteristics will be a little better or that I will use less fuel. Accordingly, I now observe the driving behaviour and the consumption at different speeds, in different waves, and so on.
We continue through the impressive island world and set course for Hardbakke. A short drive, getting used to again (and building confidence) to the entrance of the Sognefjord, which stretches some 200 km inland from here. – Hardbakke itself is a nest on a cluster of offshore islands, hidden among countless islets and rocks that do an excellent job of shielding the place from the influences of the rough Atlantic. But Hardbakke is also a kind of administrative centre of this group of islands, and has a school, a shopping centre, splendid sports facilities, while most of the inhabitants live widely scattered in individual farms.
I carefully manoeuvre the ArgoFram around the markers rising out of the water, visible rocks and through an entrance only a few metres wide (between rocks) to the natural harbour basin. A mighty mountain stands at the back of this village (hence the name ‘Hard Bakke’), and I decide to ‘run’ up there immediately – which turns out to be a hike of over an hour through craggy rock formations. Lois, meanwhile, goes a different way, exploring fauna and flora, until we meet up again for dinner. Yes, we are good at that: pursuing our personal interests independently and then talking afterwards about what we have observed, who we have met and what we have learned.
As the evening light is getting longer and longer, we go for a walk and learn what ‘progress’ means here: Hardbakke has received a new, very modern, magnificent ambulance boat from an influential regional politician. A proud catamaran, painted in bright yellow-green, which enables it to visit the people on the islands and the other ‘hidden’ harbours of this archipelago and to perform minor interventions/surgeries there if necessary. – The only problem is that the boat is too big, just a few centimetres, but it cannot pass through or dock everywhere… So here it is, stationed here with a highly trained crew. But while the old ambulance boat was able to get through everywhere, moor everywhere and pick up and treat the sick/accident victims if necessary, this is no longer so easy. They are thinking of buying an additional dinghy, carrying it with them, anchoring outside and ditching it, driving it to the relevant mooring… A joke, because this does not make patient transport easier or better, but only more complicated and much more inconvenient!
They had brought this to the attention of the regional politician before the ship was ordered. But they were simply not listened to, or the politician wanted to procure this boat at all costs in order to further develop ‘his’ region. Progress!…
For the inauguration, a whole troop of politicians, media representatives and other busybodies came from Oslo especially for the inauguration; many hands were shaken, many worldly-looking photos were taken. Afterwards, this group left again. – Now this certainly very good boat, this ultra-modern little hospital ship, stands next to its forerunner here in the harbour. And shines silently to itself.